(2/5/2014--EDITED TO ADD) The gloss spray didn't work for some people. There have been a lot of comments on this post. There are a lot of things various people have tried. I really love the community on this post. Everyone has really provided some great insight on the sealing process. It's wonderful to see what others have tried and what has worked or not worked. This is what I think is so amazing about the blogging world! So thank you to everyone who has taken the time to comment. And keep the sealing ideas coming!
(6/27/2013--EDITED TO ADD) I WAS NEW TO SEALING ANY ART PROJECTS WHEN I FIRST WROTE THIS POST. THE PROCESS BELOW IS VERY LENGTHY AND INVOLVED. YOU DO NOT NEED TO DO ALL THIS AND BESIDES IT DOESN'T EVEN SEAL YOUR TILES PROPERLY. YOU CAN SIMPLY USE A CLEAR GLOSS SPRAY (LIKE KRYLON'S TRIPLE THICK CLEAR GLAZE) AND IT SHOULD WORK FINE. :-)
We have now reached my least favorite part of this project: sealing the tiles. This is the tedious portion of the process. You have to do many layers and wait...wait...wait.
I found this process in the comments section of Aimee's "Fun with Alcohol" post. It was shared with her by someone else. And I asked Aimee if it was okay if I posted it again, she said no problem!
Here is what you will need:
---Krylon Matte Finish (though I wonder why you couldn't use Gloss...I may try that next time)
---Pledge Vinyl & Tile Floor Finish with Future Shine
---a foam brush
---a well-ventilated area
I had a bit of a tough time finding all of these products easily. You can get the Fixatif and Matte Finish in the spray paint section at Michael's. But I had to go to two different Michael's before I found it (and I started off looking at Home Depot and Walmart before I got to Michael's). I got the Pledge Floor Finish at Walmart only AFTER I made the mistake of buying Pledge WOOD Floor Finish. I bought the first bottle on Amazon because I have Amazon Prime and I was sick of driving all over looking for supplies so I thought it would be easier to just order it and have it show up at my door. I didn't realize I had ordered the wood floor variety (I was in too big of a hurry to notice).
Step One: Spray a light mist of the Fixatif over your tiles. I held the can about a foot away. If you hold the can too closely or put too much on, you will notice some speckling in the ink on your tile (this could actually be a good effect if you want it). Let this dry 45 minutes to an hour.
Step Two: Spray a light mist of the Matte Finish over your tiles. Wait 15-30 minutes and repeat. I added four layers total of Matte Finish. And let the final layer dry for a couple hours before doing the next step.
Step Three: Using a foam brush, apply a layer of the Pledge Vinyl & Tile Floor Finish to each tile. The floor finish is VERY thin. So you do not need much to cover the tile. You will also notice some tiny bubbles when you first apply. These actually disappear when the tile dries. I waited 8 hours or so between applications and I did three or four coats (I can't remember now) total.
Your tile will have a matte finish in the end. This is where I'm wondering if you use the Gloss Finish instead of Matte in "Step Two" if the tile will end up shinier. But they look great! And I've been using one for a day already and it hasn't scratched or anything so hopefully the seal will last for awhile and not scratch the ink off with use.
Some things I learned:
--I did use the wood floor finish on one set of tiles before I realized I had the wrong kind of floor finish. And the wood finish made the alcohol ink really run. So some of our taped tiles where we had white left were no longer white and the colors mixed together more. BUT, I was able to salvage this by using a Q-tip to scrap away on the white lines and start the sealing process over again. I used the correct floor finish and these tiles seemed to seal properly after this.
--It is important to wait for all steps to dry properly. If not, the inks may lift up or spread or mix together when you add the Floor Finish. I probably waited longer than I needed to, but I wanted to make extra sure the ink was going to stay.
--Press lightly with the foam brush, even though you can let everything dry properly, I still discovered that the warmer ink colors (Watermelon and Wild Plum) were particularly susceptible to spreading and lifting up onto the foam brush. The tiles that I sealed properly from the beginning did not have as much of this issue as the ones I did wrong. But, the Wild Plum ink still came up a tiny bit.
(EDITED TO ADD 6/8/12)--My mom used her coasters with a glass with cold liquid in warm weather. The glass sweat and made the ink rub off. :-( She was so disappointed! So I guess this method only seals against mugs with warm liquid in them and regular glasses with room temperature liquid in them. I will have to continue to play with finding a more permanent seal.)
I've also heard of people using Mod Podge to seal their tiles. I would be VERY curious if anyone else has found another solid way to seal them (maybe one that is less time consuming). But this process does seem to work pretty well. Not sure I would put any of this through a dishwasher or anything like that. I wonder how long these tiles will last with this seal. Maybe I'll come back to add that in after using my tile for awhile.
Finally, we added foam pads in each corner of the tiles and I had the girls sign and date their work. Now, it's ready to be wrapped up for Mother's Day!
Overall, the girls and I LOVED this project and already have plans for more projects with the alcohol inks.
your tiles look so great. thanks for the tip on the sealer!
ReplyDeletethey look great! i hope the seal lasts!
ReplyDeleteon youtube, there are 2 videos showing you how to make your own alcohol inks with permanent markers and 90% rubbing alcohol. I was also going to try some fabric dye and alcohol. I believe the blending solutions is mostly alcohol.
ReplyDeletealso the Floor Finish used to be known as "Future Floor Finiah" before Pledge bought it, so in the crafter's world, you will find references to FFF - it can be used for a glue, sealer and a varnish. I glue torn up pieces of tissue paper to glass vases with it, then put a couple more coats on top. The tissue dries transparent, so also looks nice on things with a small candle light in it.
ReplyDeleteI also made about 30 of those for my daughters wedding, using the $1.00 glass candle holders from the Dollar Tree...the ones that look like a High Ball Glass with a very thick rounded solid bottom, and added paper flower table scatter on top of the tissue, just a few 3-5 max. I also hid a tiny disco hamster sticker on a few whomever found it got a small prize ( no drinking or dancing at the reception, we had to entertain ourselves somehow!)
Deleteakartisan: what a neat idea with the tissue paper and glass vases! I will be sure to remember that. Thanks so much for sharing!
ReplyDeleteI read elsewhere that you can use this product on alcohol ink tiles. Haven't tried it yet, but I will!
ReplyDeleteRust-Oleum 63281 Watco Lacquer Finish Spray, Clear Satin
Pat! Thank you so much for posting your suggestion! My girls asked me recently to do this project again and I certainly would like to try a different way of sealing the tiles.
DeleteI used the lacquer as well.....have the clear polyurethane fail with the sweaty glass. Don't know for sure if the lacquer will fail the sweaty glass test.
DeleteI will give the Rust-Oleum Lacquer Finish Spray a try and report back :)
ReplyDeleteI was also wondering how the Krylon Triple Thick Clear Spray would work. I have a few extra tiles from last year. I'll give that a try and report back as well. :-)
DeleteI know that there are many people who use krylon triple thick glaze to seal the AI projects
DeleteI used the krylon triple thick spray, a couple coats then used americana triple thick brush on gloss glaze. I found that just the krylon ink still came off the coasters. This works great.
DeleteI am an art teacher and have had great success in letting the alcohol ink dry overnight and then sealing with 3-4 coats of acrylic gloss medium. This is a clear gloss that is permanent and will seal the ink from running at all. You can also put a couple of coats of the gloss medium down, wait to dry, then draw on the tile with permanent marker if desired. :) We've also done these on glass stemware and glass blocks used in bathrooms for windows. :)
ReplyDeleteDebby, Thank you for your comment! I was pretty new to any sort of sealing process when we first created these tiles. I have since done a few other projects that needed to be sealed and have learned the above process is waaay more involved and tedious than it needs to be. I agree that a clear gloss would work great for these...and now I'm off to add a note to this post to save other people the hassle of the this lengthy sealing process. ;-)
DeleteOk to update: I just finished teaching an art camp for middle schoolers. Due to budget constraints, I decided to try Mod Podge for sealing instead of acrylic gloss medium. FAIL. The kids really liked to paint 'strokes' with the Mod Podge, which ended up taking some of the alcohol ink off. The ones that succeeded had visible brush strokes on their tiles when the Mod Podge dried, even though we put on a coat in one direction, let it dry, then put on another coat in the opposite direction (side to side, then up and down). Also - if you stack the tiles after sealing with Mod Podge, even after days of drying, they will STICK and pull the Mod Podge and paint off. In short, don't use it! :/
DeleteDebby, Thank you so much for reporting back! It's definitely a process and I think it's good to try different things. We always learn something, even if what we learn is that something doesn't work! It's too bad the kids' projects didn't work out, but at least you know for next time. :-)
DeleteI have had success with Modge Podge. I paint two layers, sanding gently in between each layer. Then I spray with gloss acrylic sealant.
DeleteI have made the coasters and trivets for the kitchen with the tiles and I found a post that suggested using Rust-oleum High Heat Automotive Enamel (clear) or the regular Rust-oleum Automotive Enamel. The only difference is I think the high heat is rated for up to 2000 degrees and the regular for 400 degrees. I put hot pots, hot coffee mugs, and cold drinks that sweat with no problem. I used 3 or 4 coats but I don't think you need to use that much. Because of the many coats on mine a hot pot will stick a little, but it comes right off with no damage at all. They are water and heat proof. Don't remember where I saw the original post, but it sure does work.
DeleteI can't take the credit for the idea because I read it on a post somewhere, but Rust-oleum Automotive Enamel or Rust-oleum High Heat Automotive Enamel works great. I have made both coasters and trivets and they are water and heat proof. I put several coats on the trivets to be safe and a hot pot may stick a little, but it comes right off within damage at all. Works great. I have used mine with hot pots, hot coffee cups and cold drinks that sweat.
DeleteWhen I paint my wine glasses I bake them to set the ink/paint and make it permanent. I was wondering if anyone has used a baking finish and how its worked.
ReplyDeleteNatalie, what a great question! I haven't tried that, but would love to know if it worked for someone. I actually just googled baking alcohol inks to see if I could find any information and nothing helpful came up.
DeleteI baked my tiles for 30 mins. at 375 degrees and left them in the oven overnight to cool. The paint faded terribly. Where I had drawn with a sharpie remained nice and black but there was immense fading in all the other areas.
DeleteI use the Krylon Triple Thick Glaze to seal tiles.....usually 3 to 4 coats...it works the best of anything I tried
ReplyDeleteI use the Krylon Triple Thick Glaze...3 to 4 coats...works great
ReplyDeleteok but have you tried to pour alcohol on these sealed tiles ...I used krylon crustal clear permanent finish and it lifts right off with alcohol...I haven't tried triple thick glaze yet.
ReplyDeleteI have started making these tiles last September. LOVE IT BUT I've had issues with the coatings. I've tried Krylon triple thick glaze, Krylon Acrylic Spray, Modpodge acrylic spray and for some reason when i've stacked them to ship (a friend wanted a set) the pads on the bottom rubbed the coating off of the tile it was touching and left noticeable imprints. It did not mess up the ink though just the coating. this keeps happening. Any suggestions? Also, which do the coatings mentioned work well for hot items?
ReplyDeleteI didn't have any issues with my initial sealing of the tiles (outlined in the post) with hot items. Only cold or glasses that had condensation on them. So I think if you're only using them for coffee cups or such, it should be ok.
DeleteI made some for trivets, and I thought very much about the sealer for an item that someone might take out a 450 F degree oven and set on it? and I made ART, they were gorgeous! did not want them ruined. So ...I went to the Automotive store, prices are different at each one up to $4.00 difference call and ahead and make sure they have this and how much..It's not cheap...BUT it is ENGINE SEALER..Clear Gloss, CLEAR GLOSS, takes heat up to 1200 F degrees! and as long as the tile was level, nothing was ruined. Other projects I have ruined with the Krylon Clear Gloss, but the triple thick and the SATIN are ok. I do not care for matte, and if you spray matte onto any metallic paint or INKS, they are immediately Dulled!! they are not longer shiny metallic colors. wah! So, don't do that!
DeleteSo, I put a Matte on ones that have no metallic paints on, then spray later after dried with the triple thick or the satin. I used that gloss the other night on a tile that had dried for two weeks and the whole thing was a blue when I came back to see if it was dry. Then I just pour alcohol on them let it soak, use plastic scraper, and it's off in a jiffy and I can start all over with a clean tile. I tried this method on a trivet and I COULD DO IT< but it was very difficult, and took a lot of soaking and scraping and soaking and scraping...
Xiolene will take off any material (except resin) off a tile and leave the original finish in as new condition.Use gloves and wipe- no scraping no soaking. It will take off all traces of paint coatings and ink.
Deleteoops xylene
DeleteKaren,I went to an automotive store near Boston where I live. There was nothing called a clear gloss engine sealer. Can you give me the exact name? Maybe I can order it online. Thank you so much.
DeleteKaren, I went to an automotive store near Boston where I live. They never heard of a clear gloss engine sealer . Could you send me the exact name. Maybe I can order it online. ThNk you.
DeleteThe automotive sealer blistered the inks on my tiles. Ruined quite a few of them.
DeleteI'm using the triple thick glaze and have found that if I rub my finger across the tile with just a little pressure, the paint and glaze flake right off. :/ I waited 24 hours so I don't believe drying time is the issue. I don't want to spend all this time and give these to people and have them ruined in just a use or two. :/ Suggestions?
ReplyDeleteMan, you wouldn't think it would be THAT hard to figure out a way to seal the tiles! Grrr! I admit we haven't tried these again so I haven't had to experiment with sealing them again. I know I tried a polyurethane spray on our painted flower pots (that was acrylic paint) and that worked really well outdoors in the elements in the summer. I wonder if that would work on the tiles? That would be my only suggestion! If you try it, come back and let me know how it works! So sorry the triple thick didn't work out!
DeleteI did this earlier this year and I baked my tiles on low heat for a couple hours. THEN I sealed them. I used a spray on acrylic seal that I bought in the craft store. I am not able to scratch the inks off the tile and letting water sit on it doesn't seem to affect it either. I am making the tiles again as christmas presents now amd I skipped the baking step and just sealed and what do you know, the ink scratches off :( I have them in the oven now so even though they've already been sealed I'm hoping it will salvage them!
ReplyDeleteWhat temp did you bake them on? And which acrylic seal did you use? Did it matter if it had acetone in it after they were baked?
DeleteI have done coasters and the only thing that I have found that works is to use a resin to seal them. This makes them completely water proof.
ReplyDeleteLeia - What temp did you bake the tiles and was it for 2 hours?
ReplyDeleteCruisegirl60 - What type of resin did you use?
I am doing a backsplash for my kitchen and can't find the color tiles I would like to use as accent colors, so thought this might be the thing if it will last over time! Thanks in advance
I also baked the tiles. Place tile on cookie sheet lined with foil. Turn oven to 400 degrees. Put tile in while oven is still cold. When temp is reached bake for 30 minutes. Turn oven off and let tile cool. Also this is after letting tile sit for 24 hours before doing anything to it to set the colors. After baking and tile is cold spray with Rustoleum's Crystal Clear Glaze. Other glazes might work but this is what I used.
DeleteI tried baking sharpie onto glass at 450 (as recommended by someone on line) and it baked almost completely off. Glass enamel paint temp is 350. I am now about to try baking a ceramic tile with combo of adirondack ink and homemade ink made from sharpie mixed in rubbing alcohol.... debating whether to to try your 400 and the 350 you use with glass enamel paint. Another problem I had with the sharpie on glass (a wine bottle with Christmas lights inside) was the sharpie becoming very tacky when the bottle heated up. Thus the reason for trying to bake it on... After I bake it on I am going to spray coats of Rustoleum triple thick spray (my Lowe's didn't have Krylon version). I will post how that come out. I also going to try just the spray on another tile to see what that does. Some of these will be trivets, some coasters, some just decorations.
Deletehas anyone tryed using painted tile for a shower/bath backsplash? Did it work, how did you do it?
ReplyDeleteUse the Resin. Get it at the craft store, where the jewelry making stuff is, usually. It won't yellow, completely waterproofs it, and and completely protects it from ANY accidental scratches. It's perfect for that, it's a bit pricey, but you could use the half off coupon at Michael's on Saturdays. For just normal use, I use the Krylon Satin finish spray and after a few or several coats, THEN I use the triple thick to get the nice shine. or just use satin, shine without the glare.
DeleteYup resin is the only way. You can use a foam brush to apply. Go vertical then horizontal. Thin coat. Keep it level...And u won't have any brush strokes in it.
DeletePlease please, someone help me discover what sealer to use for my coasters. They are sticking to my iced beverages. I used the mod podge acrylic sealer. Has anyone found an answer to this dilema?
ReplyDeleteI use 2 part resin called Envirotex. It comes in 2 bottles. You can get it in a box that contains 2 small bottles of 8 oz each at Hobby Lobby and Michaels, as well as on line. One bottle contains the resin and the other bottle contains the hardener. You mix a 1 to 1 ratio in a plastic cup w/ oz measurements on the side of the cup. After mixing, extremely well with a popcycle stick, you can pour it on the object, or you can use a foam brush to paint it on. Small bubbles might appear, but if you have one of the long candle lighters, just wave the flame over the top of bubbles and they disappear. Don't use a heat tool, as the carbon dioxide makes the bubbles go away, not the heat. This process is a chemical activation process, so don't think you can speed up the drying by using heat. You can use a foam brush to smooth it out if you pour or paint on. If you decide to pour it on, elevate the object on top of something (like a can) so the resin will drip over the sides, and every now and then wipe the drips off the bottom of the tile. Or you can prepare ahead of time by taping duct tape along the bottom sides of the object, and when you're finished you can remove the tape and any drips come along with it. Dry overnight. I put my objects under a large box so no dust or flying insects will stick to it. I know this sounds long and laborous, but after doing it once it will be easier for you and you will have a permanently sealed object. This is the stuff you might have seen on table tops that looks like glass. Bar tops are also sealed with the resin, and you know how many glasses, bottles, spills happen to them. I use this all the time on my art.
ReplyDeleteBarb, did you use the resin on tiles painted with alcohol inks? That seems to be the challenge. The inks don't work with liquids and sprays because even if dry, the wake U and run.
Deletei tried sealing ceraic tile after using AI on them. I attempted sealing 4 days after i finished AI work. After applying the resin the paint started paling. red color stuck to the foam brush i also found speckles.
Deletei used Krylon clear polyuretane spray.. it dulled the work and lot of speckles.
i have spoilt 4 tiles already..
Please has anyone found fool-proof sealer. Please share with me. Thanks
Yes my guess is she did. I use same method to seal my coasters. I've been selling them and use my own for at least 3 years now.
DeleteSeems like the only fool-proof sealer is the resin! I'll have to try that next time! Thank you so much to those who suggested it! :-)
ReplyDeleteThank all you ladies sooo much!!! I have tried to make these tiles several times and cant get them to seal either! I never thought of resin. I will have to try again.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI found a SOLUTION!!! At least I think I did! I tried using Krylon's Clear Polyurethane spray (http://www.krylon.com/products/clear-polyurethane-coating/) on alcohol ink on ceramic tile! It worked! I sprayed one coat, waited about 30 minutes and sprayed a second coat. I let it sit for 2 days. Ran it under hot water, cold water, rubbed it....and nothing came off!! It was sealed! The only thing I noticed with using it is that it speckled the alcohol ink just the tiniest bit. Nothing that looked bad. Just sort of added to the charm of the tile.
ReplyDeleteHolly, to clarify, when you used this spray, you did not also do all the other steps in your original post (the fixative, etc.)? Just the inked tile then straight to the sealing spray?
DeleteHi Suzanne!
DeleteYES! Forget all the other steps!! Just use the spray and it should be fine. The only I noticed is that it speckled a little. But if you hold it a bit further from the tile, that may help with that. Hope that helps!
i tried Krylon's Clear polyurethane.. sprayed from almost 13--14" away. did 2 coats with a break of 40min in between the coats. the work became dull like matte finish and too many speckles.
DeleteUV protectant clear spray alternated with Krylon clear. Tiles will fade over time if left near light source.
ReplyDeleteWill Krylon's Clear Polyurethane spray on alcohol ink on GLASS work? I need the final project to be heat / flame resistant. I'm using small glass bowls as a candle holder for votive candles. TIA
ReplyDeleteI have tried the Krylon Matte Clear Spray and it spotted my tiles. What did i do wrong?
ReplyDeleteHi Diana,
DeleteI'm not sure if the matte spray makes a difference. I used the Polyurethane coating and it goes on glossy. If you read my comment at the very top of this post, my tiles did speckle a tiny bit. But not enough to ruin them, I just thought it added something extra to them. Maybe you need to hold your spray can a bit farther away? Or you might try starting the spray off the tile to the left and sweeping it over the tile in a continuous spray/motion.
You can avoid all these problems by using Epoxy resin. It dries like glass and hard as a rock. This is the same stuff they use on bar tops and tables. I recommend Enviro Lite resin. You can get it on the web and also at art supply stores such as Michaels and Hobby Lobby. I seal a lot of my art with this. Apply it with a foam brush and it will be dry overnight, but cures in about 48 hours. It's a glossy finish.
ReplyDeletei used epoxy resin , Amazing clear bought it at Micheals. color came off on the foam brush. speckled. i tried pouring the resin on them.. same results.
Deletei used epoxy resin , Amazing clear bought it at Micheals. color came off on the foam brush. speckled. i tried pouring the resin on them.. same results.
DeleteI used minwax polyacrylic coating because I have used it for sealing many other types of art projects with success. It changed the beautiful vibrant red to a peachy pink, that really doesn't look very good with the other colors on the tile. Has anyone had this problem? I haven't even tested how well they are sealed because I find the color change unacceptable. Has anyone noticed this with any of the other methods of sealing?
ReplyDeleteDianne, it is a good thing you gave up on the minwax. I found it recommended on another craft blog and created and coated a bunch of tiles with it - got discoloration on all (I used alcohol inks to color stamped images), as if yellow had been added to each color. But most still looked good even though different, so I trusted the supposed waterproofness of the seal and sold a bunch. I had my few leftovers out at a craft fair last week & they got rained on...disaster!!! the coating crinkled and flaked off as it dried, taking the image and color with it. I'm online today researching solutions that actually work so I can make new tiles.
Delete2 questions (and thank you for this blog!)
ReplyDelete1) is the Krylon poly (http://www.krylon.com/products/clear-polyurethane-coating/) better than the acrylic (http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/)
2) how do you get your Envirotex not to yellow? i just get what Michael's has - but, the white parts always yellow over time....
I use Minwax polyurethane. I brush it on with a foam brush and set it under a ceiling fan to dry. It can be a little yellowish sometimes, but unless I need something super white, it works great. I have only had it change my colors a time our ywo. I do two coats and have found it to be extremely durable.
ReplyDeleteI use Minwax polyurethane. I brush it on with a foam brush and set it under a ceiling fan to dry. It can be a little yellowish sometimes, but unless I need something super white, it works great. I have only had it change my colors a time our ywo. I do two coats and have found it to be extremely durable.
ReplyDeleteI had issues as well with the alcohol ink on tile. So I experimented. I did two new tiles, I let them sit for 24 hours after applying the alcohol ink. Than one I baked and one I left as is. I let sit for another 24 just to make sure everything was set, than sprayed with Rustoleum's Crystal Clear Enamel. The baked one stayed the same, the other one lightened up and had some spotting. To bake, cover your baking sheet with parchment or foil first to protect it. Than set your oven to 400 degrees, put the tile into cold oven. After it has reached its temp, set timer for 30 minutes. After the 30 minutes, turn oven off but leave your tile in oven to cool and finish.
ReplyDeleteI'm trying bar top resin tomorrow on mine...I will let you know...It should leave a high gloss finish that won't yellow....I'm going to use a foam brush to put it on and it is self leveling and will be smooth
ReplyDeleteJenn, how did the bar top resin work?
DeleteUse fishing rod wrapping epoxy. You can thin with denatured alcohol if you want it thinner. Flexcoat is what I use. No problems. I dip mine.
ReplyDeleteNot sure if my last entry posted. I use Harbor Freight epoxy slightly thinned with denatured alcohol. Crystal clear. I dip. If you do get small bubbles wave a small flame back and forth quickly a few inches away.
ReplyDeleteGood to know about the epoxy from Harbor Freight, and the bar top resin. I have some of the Envirotex sold at Micheals and a year later the unused portions in the bottles have yellowed. The tiles that I made 6-12 months ago look ok though.
ReplyDeletenow I'm really confused LOL. I live in Scotland UK and krylon is not available over here. I made some coasters and friends are interested in buy some would the polyurethane work sealing it? that's available over here LOL thanks for any input greatly appreciated
ReplyDeleteI have been inquiring about how to seal alcohol ink tiles I got a response from quickdraw supplies that prism all purpose and surface crystal clear glaze would do the trick. has anyone used this? I haven't yet
ReplyDeleteI am redoing a coffee table and covering the top with alcohol ink tiles. I'm leaning towards the bar top resin but will the colors yellow or fade over time? I'm thinking of baking them, sealing them with the UV protection spray, then pouring the resin on after they are all glued down.
ReplyDeleteHave been reading everyone's comments about sealing alcohol inks. Yet to find a sure fire way of sealing the tiles, or glasses, etc., but have switched to using Pebeo glass paints and have done every conceivable glass product. It is heat set in the oven, start in a cold oven set to 325 deg. And cook for 50 minutes. Turn oven off and let the oven cool. I have sets of glasses that I have dishwashed and scrubbed for years and it is VERY permanent. Break the glass and it's a goner tho! The glass paints are not quite as versatile or as fun to use as the inks, but if you play with them they turn out fantastic. No sealer required!
ReplyDeleteAfter almost three years, are there any updates on successful sealing techniques? I am also questioning how epoxy coating works without disturbing the alcohol ink if denatured alcohol can be used to thin it?
ReplyDeleteTried all the above and after several years unable to find anything that wont stick to bottom of coffee cup...unless i go to pottery class and start with unbaked clay and fire twice with expensive glazes...all other seals and resins just end up tacky in humidity...
ReplyDeleteGreetings.
ReplyDeleteI am a beginner with AI. I have created coasters to be put to use at home. which is the best sealant epoxy resin using foam brush or Krylon's Clear Polyurethane spray or Rustoleum's Crystal Clear Enamel? Please suggest thanks
WOW!!! Info overload! This will take me a while to sort out all the different suggestions. I thank you all...I've never used alcohol ink before but am so anxious to try. This is such a great group...nice to know there a still wonderful people in this crazy world.
ReplyDeleteI lost my comments! I commented first and then needed to finish and then found out that I did the process backwards. So I'll only repeat the highlightes: Info overload..... wonderful people with so much helpful info. THANKS
ReplyDeleteWe’ve been stumbling around the internet and found your blog along the way.
ReplyDeleteWe love your work! What a great corner of the internet :)
http://www.pavetile.com.au/
I want to paint regular ceramic tiles with liquitex inks (they are not alcohol inks because I have breathing issues with those inks). I wish to make them as coasters though if they do come out well, might have them as hanging tile gifts. I must find some sealer that can protect the tiles from coffee cups and moisture. I have looked everywhere online for alternatives. Yes, resin is good, especially Enviro lite but if you look at the FDA materials safety list, the product has toxic elements that would be dangerous for someone with my breathing issues. As a result I wanted to use Liquitex professional gloss varnish and then apply Minwax polyacrylic over the liquitex. Or some variant. Some recommended a type of polyurethane by Verathane. To say I am confused and frustrated would be a misnomer. HELP!
ReplyDeleteIt took me a while to settle on the enviro lite. It does well to seal and doesn't chane the color if you coat it with something else first. Although I haven't used it for a while and it has yellowed quite a bit. Which means it is also yellowing on the tiles I coated.Good luck
ReplyDeleteI am still struggling with the alcohol ink trivets. I coated them with three coats of the Krylon Triple Spray and then two coasts of a Rustoleum product guaranteed to work with heat up to 2000 degrees. However, when I just tested them with a hot cup of tea the cup stuck to the trivet and left a mark. I have to think that the Rustoleum product didn't work.I need HELP11
ReplyDeleteLooking for a resolution to permanently fix the ink on a wine glass. I left enough of an area around the rim so no lips would tough but still need a good solution. What have others used to seal on glass? Thanks!
ReplyDeletethanks for the tips and information..i really appreciate it..
ReplyDeleteCeramic tile